Fall/Winter 2019-2020 is a season of contrasts. In one corner, designers are paying homage to the not-so-discreet lavishness of the French bourgeoisie. In the other, punk spirit can be felt in the air, laughing in the face of convention and inspiring the silhouettes of the femme rebelle. But these two opposing influences share a common denominator – they celebrate the woman of today, rather than create an impossible ideal of what she should be. These are the trends defining the fashion landscape in Fall/Winter 2019-2020.
After seasons of more conceptual fashion, a return to a style code with elegance at its core is shaped the capsules on the runway at Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2019-2020. Think late 1970s and early 1980s bourgeois, refined silhouettes with skirt-cum-culottes, blazers, sharply pleated trousers, tailoring and trench coats…the key is creating coherent looks with precise cuts.
Enter a silhouette that states loud and clear that its wearer is rebellious and inspired, carving her path with studs, boxy, androgynous designs and all of the style-tricks of punk, grunge and bondage, for a cool, detached style revival that defies tired convention.
This winter’s obsession? The 1980s (glitter and shoulder pads included) and night-club style à la Studio 54 or Palace.
Dominating silhouettes from head-to-toe, the high-contrast houndstooth motif saw a fusing of retro spirit with a distinctly androgynous allure.
For those wishing to stay modern while firmly classic, the return of the cape is the answer, a chic (and comfortable) complement to both casual looks and eveningwear.
The potential for variation around such a simple motif is vast. Worn head-to-toe or color-blocked is a sure-fire way to self-confidence.
Never straying far from the failsafe winter trend, this season sheepskin underwent a more natural regeneration, with energetic, urban and sporty versions seen on the runways; preppy at Celine, Seventies-style at Chloé and fit for the adventurer at Isabel Marant.
The signature 1980s look possesses infinite architectural potential. Make the shoulders the focal point of creativity, whether square, sharp or shamelessly voluminous.
The neon trend lit up the runways this Fashion Week, drawing inspiration from the 1980s, rave culture and even the nuclear apocalypse as demonstrated at Marine Serre - bold color-blocking is a given. It’s a blatant call for attention and reaction: “What do I want? To shock people, to force them to reflect,” said Yves Saint Laurent to Vogue in 1971 after the presentation of his notorious Scandale collection.
With a season drawing heavily on androgynous silhouettes, the tuxedo is making a comeback, this time undergoing a couture renaissance with chic sleeve detailing, sculpted shoulders and sequins.
For an assured sense of Hollywood’s golden era glamour, bright feathers are a tool to be used without reserve.
Faux -fur is more than just a trend – it’s prominence on the runways is symptomatic of the fashion world’s growing environmental awareness. What’s more, the shows at Fall/Winter 2019-2020 proved its versatility, with the kitschy glam-satire of the Moschino show and a more natural, arty look at Stella McCartney.
A direct descendant of the sporty look (teddy, cargo-pants, sailing shoes), preppy style (with the assumed ties, skirt-cum-culottes, tweed and moccasins) was back in force, played on by designers from New York to Milan.
EXAGGERATED VOLUME F
This season, it’s a question of size, especially when it comes to shoulders and sleeves. At Bottega Veneta, Alexander McQueen and Balenciaga, designs were balloon-like, softly curved and contoured, for a somehow over-stated yet gentle allure.
With black leather, vinyl, cages and corsets, all of the boxes were ticked for a definitively bondage-inspired winter.
Prominent on the runways were designs that took comfort-wear to new extremes, in direct response to our climate reaching crisis-point, with voluminous quilted jackets and strange hybrid creations, born out of our current radioactive dystopia.
Lingerie is not just reserved for the nighttime. By day, pair a retro-vintage silhouette with lace and baby-doll detailing.
Source: Vogue Paris